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Tripoli
Tripoli (Trablos), 85
kilometers north of Beirut, has a special character all its own.
Thanks to its historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving
business climate, this is a city where modern and medieval blend
easily into a lively and hospitable metropolis. Known as the capital
of the North, Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city. Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating from the 14th century, have been registered as historical sites. Twelve mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived along with an equal number of “madrassas” or theological schools. Secular buildings include the “hammam” or the bathing- house, which followed the classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine baths, and the “khan” or caravansary. The souks, together with the “khans”, form an agglomeration of various trades where tailors, jewelers, perfumers, tanners and soap-makers work in surroundings that have changed very little over the last 500 years. The octagonal Fatimid construction in the Citadel After 635, Tripoli became a commercial and shipbuilding center under the Omayyads. It achieved semi-independence under the Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of learning. At the beginning of the
12th century the Crusaders laid siege to the city, finally entering
it in 1109. The conquest caused extensive destruction, including the
burning of Tripoli's famous library, the Dar il-'ilm, with its
thousands of volumes. During the long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516 - 1918) Tripoli retained
its prosperity and commercial importance and in these years more
buildings were added to the city's architectural wealth.
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because the ancient site lies buried beneath the modern city of Al-Mina. However, a few accidental finds are now in museums. Excavations in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient southern port quay and a necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic period. A sounding made in the Crusader castle uncover Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Fatimid remains. Selected Sites of Tripoli The Citadel of Tripoli 1 - The Citadel Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel of Tripoli known as Qal’at Sinjil (Saint Gilles) which has been renovated and changed many times during its history. Today the castle’s main
features are an octagonal Fatimid constructions converted to a
church by the Crusaders, some Crusader structures of the 12th-13th
centuries, a number of 14th century Mamluke additions, as well as
additions
made by the Ottomans in the 16th century. The present state of this
huge fortress (140 meters long and 70 meters wide) is largely the
result of extensive restoration work by Mustafa Barbar Agha,
governor of Tripoli at the beginning of the 19th century. Significant remains of
this Crusader church were found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint
John about 200 meters south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill There
are two joined chapels, the larger of which has a semi-circular
apse. the smaller one, with a rectangular apse, was reserved for
funerary use. The church was surrounded by a large Crusader
cemetery.
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the Great Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader cathedral of St. Mary of the Tower. Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos and a domed and vaulted prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements of Western architecture from the old church, including the northern entrance and the Lombard style bell tower which was transformed into the minaret. The many foundation
plaques and decrees inscribed in the great Mosque and its
surrounding madrassas not only inform us about the building but
reveal details of the daily life of the Mamluke period. This important mosque
was built in 1336 by Saif ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined
Crusader Carmelite church. The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the
tomb of the founder. Some elements of the original structure were
re-used in the mosque, for example, the two rows of granite columns
with late Roman capitals which stand in the middle of the first
prayer hall. The entrance of the second prayer hall is a unique
example of the architectural decoration in Tripoli during the
Mamluke era. The name means "hanging mosque", possibly because it is on the second floor. This small mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century, has a plain whitewashed interior with steps leading down to an attractive courtyard garden. The minaret is
octagonal and unadorned. The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque was built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D. This domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance arch and is ornamented with double windows which have black and white stone arches. The dark stone portal
is decorated with stalactites and the mihrab is covered with an
ornate golden mosaic. The madrassa is known
for the fine workmanship of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb
patterns and stalactites, and its elegant façade of alternate black
and white facings. Built during the first quarter of the 14th
century A.D., Al-Qartâwiyat is probably Tripoli's most ornate
building and the only one with a prayer hall covered by an oval
dome. Built during the second half of the 15th century, this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are constructed of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns. The portal is higher
than the façade of the building and decorated with shell motifs
embellished by radiating zigzag motif, stalactites and twisted
colonettes. This unique building in
Lebanon was constructed during the second half of the 15th century
to house Muslim mystics or Sufis. It is designed with an open
courtyard and pool. The courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a
raised platform, or iwan, behind an arch of alternating black and
white stones. The arch is supported by granite columns. This public bathing-house was given to the city by its Mam-luke
governor 'Izz ed-Dîne Aybak. The governor, who died in 1298, is
buried in a mausoleum beside the hammam. In building these baths, he
used choice remains from the Crusader church and hospice of Saint
James. The front portal is decorated with an inscribed fragment
between two Saint-James shells, and the inner door is surmounted by
the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne was in continual use
until recently and it is now under restoration. Tripoli's only
functioning hammam is Hammam el-Abed, probably built at the end of
the 17th century. It has the typical pierced domes of Mamluke and
Ottoman era public baths. The interior, with its cushions, central
fountain and traditional fittings, is a living museum. Built around 1740, and
called the “New Bath”, this is by far the largest “hammam” in the
city, although it has not been in operation since the 1970’s, its
faded grandeur still stirs the imagination. The Khân Al-Khayyatin or Tailors’ Khan, is one of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the 14th century. It was probably built on the remains of a Byzantine and Crusader monument in the center of the ancient commercial suburb which controlled passage over the Abu ‘Ali river. Thus, this “khan” has a
different plan than the others in the city. The restored structure
consists of a long passageway with tall arches on each side and ten
transverse arches. Just at its western entrance stands a granite
column surmounted by a marble Corinthian capital. 15 - Souk Al-Haraj A unique sight, this
covered 14th century bazaar has a high vaulted ceiling supported by
granite columns which may have originally been part of Roman or
Crusader structures. A total of 14 granite shafts can be seen along
the north, south and east sides. Today this space is occupied by
sellers of floor mats, pillows and mattresses. While most of the
numerous coastal towers and fortifications which protected Tripoli
during Mamluke times have disappeared or been encroached upon by
modern buildings, the mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still
remarkably preserved. It was given this name in the 19th century
because of the lions carved in relief that once stood above the
entrance. The tower is actually a fortress two stories high with
lofty vaulted ceilings. the west portal is in the typical Mamluke
black and white stone pattern. From the outside you can see how the
builders placed Roman columns horizontally in the wall
reinforcements. Modern Tripoli, which has a population of about 500,00, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the port area and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper. The Medieval city at the foot of the Crusader castle is where most of the historical sites are located. Surrounding this is a modern metropolis which is occupied with commerce, banking and recreation. The area known as "at-Tall", dominated by an Ottoman clock tower (built in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli, is the transportation center and terminus for most taxi routes. When shopping in the
old souks or downtown area, remember that gold is a good buy. Other
popular items are Tripoli’s famous sweets and traditional olive-oil
based soap, water pipes and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is a
good place to find sea food restaurants and fish markets. The city’s
most comfortable hotels and Western-style re Tripoli has a permanent
fairground designed by the famous brazilian architect, Oscar
Niemeyer. Here important exhibitions, trade fairs and other events
regularly take place. Offshore Islands: Just offshore is a string of small islands. the largest, known as the Island of Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green turtles and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in 1992, camping, fire building or depredation is forbidden. This island also holds Roman and Crusader remains. Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is known for its brass industry. The roadside is lined with small workshops and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and other objects are hammered out in the old tradition. |
staurants
can be found in the beach resorts south of the city.