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The Bride of the
Beqaa
A red-roofed town set
among the eastern foothills of Mount Sannine, Zahlé enjoys a prime
location in the Beqaa valley. Snowcapped mountains tower above it in
winter, while in summer its 945-meter elevation keeps the air light
and dry. At the northern end of town is the Bardouni river valley known as Wadi el-Aarayesh (Grape Vine Valley) – the site of Zahlé's famous outdoor restaurants. Zahlé styles itself "The City of Wine and Poetry", and with good reason. In this century alone some 50 poets and writers were born here and almost as many excellent wines and araks have been produced in the area. The romance of wine and poetry is balanced by Zahlé's more businesslike position as the administrative and commercial capital of the Beqaa valley (42.27% of Lebanon's territory) as well as its rank as the country's third largest city (population 150,000). Zahlé is also an agricultural town which produces vegetables, fruit,
grains and most importantly, gra Tucked away from Lebanon's busy coastal centers, the people of Zahlé have developed their own brand of individualism and way of doing things. Even their spoken Arabic has a particular flair. The city's reputation for intellectual vigor comes from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets who have contributed to Lebanon's cultural and political scene. Zahlé's Bardouni Restaurants The Bardouni is a river that flows out of Mount Sannine and down through Zahlé. It is also a name synonymous with Lebanon's famous mezze and the delights of outdoor dining. The Bardouni restaurant
tradition began over a hundred years ago with a few simple riverside
cafes. Today it is a virtual bazaar of tree-shaded eating places
known as "casinos," every one more inviting than the next. Not
surprisingly, competition is fierce, so each establishment outdoes
itself with fountains, pools, and cooling shade to tempt potential
customers. A Bardouni restaurant mezze as it is served
nowhere else. To add to the sense of timelessness, delicious
mountain bread is baked before your eyes and a man in baggy trousers
and fez is on hand to pour Lebanese coffee. He can also provide
diners with a hubble-bubble (water pipe). On the cliffs above the
Bardouni are the restaurants of Kaa el Reem, also known for their
excellent food and atmosphere.
Zahlé's association with the grape is pervasive, for it lies at the heart of an area that has been making wine since early antiquity. At the city's southern entrance the statue of a graceful female personifies wine and poetry, but you don't have to look far to see evidence of the real thing. The hills north of town with names like Wadi Hadi, Harqat, Bir Ghazour and Tell Zeina are covered with the neat rows of vineyards that supply Zahle's wine and arak industries. Many of the wines have been formally recognized abroad for their
fine quality–equal to some of the
best in Europe. A tour of Zahlé's Ksara winery is a good way to see
how wine and arak are made. Of special interest here are the
extensive underground caves built around a natural grotto known and
enlarged by the Romans. Each year between the 10th and 20th of September Zahlé mounts its week-long " Festival of the Vine", a celebration shared with the city's " Flower Festival". In a carnival-like
atmosphere "Miss Vine" is elected and cars are decorated with
flowers representing national symbols. The next morning a mass
takes place at Our Lady of Najat Church, followed by a procession of
townspeople carrying the "Holy Bread" through the streets. The Geha House A good example of
Zahlé's local architecture is the restored Geha House in the old
part of town. Although this is a private home, one can easily
appreciate its courtyard, garden and arched upper galleries – all
typical of 17th century architecture. The Geha Residence Old Serail (The
municipality) The Serail The Kadri, built in 1906, has seen its share of history. The hotel was taken over by the Turkish army in 1914 and used as headquarters and a hospital during World War I. It was from the Kadri as well that in 1920 the French Mandate authorities announced annexation . Hotel America in
Zahlé
of the judiciary areas which would give "Greater Lebanon" its present-day borders. The Souk al-Blatt, or "tiled market" is a
market street leading to one of the oldest parts of the city. A
large part of Zahle's history was written in this souk, where in
former times travelers to and from Syria, Baghdad and Palestine
bought and sold their goods. A project is planned to restore the
street and make it a center for crafts and other traditional
activities. Housh El-Zarani is located near the post office on the east side of the river. In past centuries this housh, or market area, was a conglomerate of khans (caravansaries), craft center and shops. Here shoemakers, woodworkers weavers, copper workers and saddle makers plied their trades. It was also an important commercial center where vendors sold agricultural and industrial products. Many of the old
buildings, embellished by carved ceilings, vaulted interiors and
decorated façades, still stand. Today these structures are somewhat
obscured by modern shopfronts, but projects are afoot to restore the
area. In the meantime you can still discover a taste of old Zahlé
here. Sayedit Zalzaly is
Zahlé's oldest church. Built in 1700, it originally stood at the
center of the city. The Church of St. Elias
is the second church built in Zahlé (1720). This impressive
structure is also known as Al-Moukhallasiah. The Monastery (1720)
has the largest bell tower in Lebanon. The monastery is known as
well for a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary, a gift from the King
of Prussia. which dates to 1755, was renovated in 1880 after a fire. Today it remains one of Zahlés most venerable monuments. Tell Shiha Hospital For the most
spectacular view, go to the 54-meter-high hill-top tower of Our Lady
of Zahle and the Beqaa located east of town. here an elevator takes
you up to a viewing platform overlooking the city and the extending
plain. The Zahlé area has some
scattered ancient remains indicating a history going back at least
to the Bronze Age (1200 - 3000 B.C.). You can see cave tombs in the
cliffs of the Wadi el-Aarayesh, while Byzantine, Roman and Canaanite
sarcophagi and ancient pottery sherds have been found in the hills
around the city. All amenities are available in Zahlé, which has plenty of good shopping and souvenir shops. There are 12 working hotels, numerous restaurants and cafés, plus recreational centers, night clubs and cinemas. Sixteen banks do business in this commercial center in addition to insurance and currency exchange companies. Zahlé's Tourism Office, a part of the Ministry of Tourism, has offices on the third floor of the Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture building. Fifty-four kilometers
separate Beirut from Zahlé going via Sofar and Chtaura.
One kilometer beyond
Zahle is the 'tomb of Noah" found in the village mosque. Although
Noah's tomb is 42 meters long and 2.5 meters wide, tradition says
that he still had to be buried with his knees bent. There is an
ancient Arabic inscriptions on the walls of the mosque, which was
apparently constructed of reused Roman stones. Located in Niha village, this restored temple of the Syro-Phoenician god Hadaranes is imposing in its size and beauty. A much smaller temple nearby, perhaps dedicated to a divinity related to water, has not been restored. Upper temples: From
Niha a steep rural roadway, usually traveled by foot, takes you up
300 meters to Husn Niha, or the "fortress of Niha". Here you will
find two partially preserved Roman temples. A steep footpath from this village leads to the remains of two Roman temples located on a high hill. Northeast of the lower temple is a rock-cut relief of Venus locally known as "Bint el Malik" or the king's daughter. For those interested in spelunking, a beautiful little cave, explored to 125 meters, can be entered with the use of ropes. Drive about a kilometer along a dirt road from Kfar Zabad towards the Anti-Lebanon mountains. A mountain footpath (15 minutes) brings you to the entrance. |
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